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Uses and Benefits of turmeric leaves

Turmeric leaves, derived from the plant Curcuma longa, are not only used in culinary applications but also possess a variety of health benefits.
Here’s an overview of their uses and benefits:

Culinary Uses
Flavoring Agent:
Turmeric leaves are commonly used in South Asian cuisine to impart flavor to dishes such as curries, chutneys, and pickles.
They can be used fresh or dried and are often wrapped around food items during cooking to enhance flavor.
In many cultures, particularly in Southeast Asia, turmeric leaves are utilized in traditional recipes, adding a unique aroma and taste to various dishes.

Health Benefits
Antioxidant Properties:
Turmeric leaves are rich in bioactive compounds, including curcumin, flavonoids, and phenolic compounds, which exhibit strong antioxidant effects.
These compounds help neutralize free radicals and reduce oxidative stress, potentially lowering the risk of chronic diseases.

Anti-inflammatory Effects:
The leaves are known for their anti-inflammatory properties, which can help alleviate symptoms associated with conditions like arthritis and other inflammatory diseases.

Antimicrobial Activity:
Turmeric leaves have been shown to possess antibacterial and antiviral properties, making them beneficial in treating infections and boosting the immune system.

Digestive Health:
They are believed to aid digestion and can be used to relieve gastrointestinal issues, including bloating and gas.

Skin Health:
Turmeric leaves are often used in traditional remedies for skin conditions, including acne and wounds, due to their antiseptic properties.

Potential Cancer Prevention:
Some studies suggest that the compounds found in turmeric leaves may help inhibit the growth of cancer cells, although more research is needed in this area.

Blood Sugar Regulation:
There is evidence to suggest that turmeric leaves may help in managing blood sugar levels, making them potentially beneficial for individuals with diabetes.

Conclusion
Turmeric leaves are a versatile ingredient with significant culinary and medicinal value.
Their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties make them a valuable addition to both diets and traditional medicine.
Incorporating turmeric leaves into meals not only enhances flavor but also contributes to overall health and wellness.

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Powdery Mildew Spray.

1litre mix

900ml water (or, preferably, weak black tea)
100ml milk (fresh, not UHT)
10ml bi-carb
5ml Epsom salts
50ml Worm Tea (optional)
10ml seaweed (optional, but a great tonic for your plants)
10ml vegetable oil (can use neem oil)
5ml  dishwasher liquid
tip: Always put the soap in last or you'll get too much foam

Put it in a spray bottle and mix well to dissolve the bi-carb or it will block the spray nozzle.

Spray the plants thoroughly making sure the leaves are completely wet, top and bottom, bad cases may need 2 sprays, but normally sorts it in one.

I use this spray every week as a preventative with very good results.

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Sources of calcium for your garden.

Worm tea and manure teas:
Vermicompost and animal manures are a good source of calcium.
Feeding your plants with worm tea and or animal manure teas is a good way to get calcium to your plants
with the added benefit of being a general nutrient boost

Calcium Nitrate:
This is a fast-acting source of calcium that can be dissolved in water and applied to the soil.
It is particularly useful for plants that are showing signs of calcium deficiency, such as blossom end rot in tomatoes.

Limestone (Calcium Carbonate):
This is a common natural source of calcium that helps raise soil pH,
making it suitable for plants that prefer alkaline conditions.
It is often used to amend acidic soils and provides a slow-release form of calcium

Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate):
Gypsum is beneficial for improving soil structure, especially in clay soils.
It provides both calcium and sulfur, which are vital for plant health.
Gypsum does not alter soil pH, making it a good choice for maintaining existing soil conditions while adding calcium.

Dolomite Lime:
This is a type of limestone that contains both calcium carbonate and magnesium carbonate.
It not only supplies calcium but also magnesium, which is another essential nutrient for plants.
Dolomite lime is particularly useful in soils that are deficient in magnesium.

Bone Meal:
While primarily a source of phosphorus, bone meal also contains calcium.
It is beneficial for root development and can be used in conjunction with other calcium sources to enhance nutrient availability.

Crushed Eggshells:
A readily available and sustainable option, crushed eggshells can be added directly to the soil.
They decompose slowly, providing a gradual release of calcium over time.

Antacid tablets:
Antacid tablets are mainly comprised of calcium carbonate.
Dissolve 4 tablets in 1TBS vinegar. When the fizzing has stopped the calcium is dissolved and the vinegar neutralised.
Add 1 cup boiling water and let it cool. Use this solution at a 20 to 1 ratio (1 cup to 5lt water or 50ml to 1lt)
Water the plants with this drenching the leaves as well.

CalPhos Tissue salts:
These are a good source of readily available calcium. Just put a few tablets in the soil around each plant.

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Homemade Worm Farm

Make your own "Low Cost" Worm Farm. Start with 2 bins (2 buckets will also do)

Make drainage holes in one of the bins. Worms like moist, but not soggy, conditions.

Put spacers in the bottom of the other bin.

This bin catches the "leachate" that will drain out of bin 1.
(If there is no leachate it most likely means that your worm bin is too dry)
The leachate is not "Worm Tea" but it is good for your plants.

Now put Bin 1 into Bin 2 so that it stands on the spacers.

All you need now is some good compost and some compost worms (Eisena Foetida)
You can start with as few as 50 as they breed very fast.

Put about a 10cm layer of damp compost into the bin add the worms and you are ready to go.

To feed collect all your veg and fruit scraps and peels (except citrus).
I blend the scraps into a thick "soup" then pour that over half the surface of the compost in the bin.
(Always place feed on one side of the bin, not over the whole surface.
This way if there is something the worms do not like they can move to the other side)
Only feed again when the food is finished. Keep alternating the side you feed.
Cover with a piece of plastic to keep the moisture in.

Place your bin in a shady place, it must always stay cool. If the bin is outside then put the lid on.
And that's all you need to do to start your own "Worm Farm"

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Main Menu

COMPOST. A Primer.

FERTILIZER. A brief introduction.

Foliar feed and Powdery Mildew preventative.

Homemade Worm Farm

Powdery Mildew Spray

Sources of calcium for your garden.

Uses and Benefits of turmeric leaves

FERTILIZER. A brief introduction.

Ask any group of gardeners whether they prefer organic or chemical fertilizer, and chances are you’ll spark a lively debate.
However, if you could ask your plants the same question, you’d find out that they can’t tell the difference and actually do not care, nutrients are nutrients and all plant food first has to be acted on by soil microbes to be converted into a format the plant can use.
(This does not apply to hydroponics which uses a specially formulated plant food)

I have, however, noticed that many people do not understand what the numbers on a fertilizer bag mean.
Those numbers like 2-3-2 (14) or 3-1-5 (22)
They tell you the N-P-K ratios and the strength of the mix.
The 1st number is Nitrogen. (Promotes leaf growth.)
The 2nd number is Phosphorus. (Promotes root growth.)
The 3rd number is Potassium. (Promotes flower and fruit growth.)
The number in the brackets tells you what the concentration is.
The higher the number the more concentrated the fertilizer and the less you need to use.

The N-P-K ratios are important as you need different ratios for different crops.

Leafy plants like lawns, spinach, onions etc. need high Nitrogen.
Root plants like potatoes, sweet potatoes, carrots etc. need high Phosphorus.
Flowers and fruiting plants like roses, tomatoes, berries, pumpkins etc. need high Potassium.

ALL of these elements are essential for plant growth.
They are collectively called MACRO nutrients as they are what plants need most.
There are also many MICRO nutrients, equally essential for plant growth and health, but plants need these in tiny doses.

So where do these elements in "chemical" fertilizer come from.
Nitrogen is extracted from the air, (Did you know that the air is 78% Nitrogen)
Phosphorus and Potassium are produced from mined ores.
So while there may be a chemical process to extract them they are made from natural earth elements.

Some alternative sources of:
Nitrogen - blood meal, animal manure, plant material, urine
Phosphorus - chicken and horse manure, bone meal, fish emulsion, rock phosphate.
Potassium - animal manure, wood ash, kelp meal, granite dust, comfrey, banana peels, eggshells, coffee grounds, tea leaves, alfalfa pellets

I hope this brief introduction gives you a better idea of plant food.

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Compost. A Primer.

I have read articles that lead you to think that making compost is a science and a complicated process.
This is very far from the truth.
Composting is a very simple process and anyone with a little bit of space can make it.

There are only 3 things needed to make compost.
1. Stuff to compost.
  This is any organic material (organic in the real sense as in anything not synthetic).
  All types of plants, sawdust, woodchips and most animal manures. (not meat. attracts rodents and could stink)
2. Water
  Without water the material will eventually break down but it could take many years.
3. A space to make it.

There is much talk about "Browns" and "Greens" and many people think that this refers to colours,
while it can refer to colour as in green grass and brown leaves, what it really refers to is
Carbon rich (browns) and Nitrogen rich (greens)

Then of course there is the ratio of browns to greens (about 70/30)
While this is good, it is not necessary. You can make compost with just grass or just leaves.
Having a good amount of nitrogen just speeds the process up.

The next point is Aerobic vs Anaerobic.
Aerobic compost is made by turning the compost regularly to incorporate air (oxygen).
Makes compost quickly but is labour intensive.
Anaerobic compost is made by piling the material and leaving it to break down naturally.
Makes compost slowly but needs minimal labour.

The way I make compost is with a 3 bin system.
In the 1st bin I pile all the garden waste. I don't sort or categorise, I just pile it in, watering each layer well.
Tip - The finer the material the quicker it breaks down so if you have a lot of leaves run the lawnmower over them to break them up.
     This is helpful especially with leaves as they form a mat that leads to water run off rather than absorption.
I have many BIG trees producing MANY leaves so on each layer of leaves I spread old compost, this holds the water and allows the leaves to soak slowly.
Since I like a "hot" compost I also spread a handful of water soluble nitrogen (Urea) on each layer.

Once bin 1 is full I (the gardener) turn the compost into bin 2. (I claim "Old Age" privileges)
This process both mixes and aerates the compost.
If necessary I add more water. The compost should always be damp but not soggy.

Then we start to fill bin 1 again.
When it is full
Bin 2 goes into bin 3 and
Bin 1 goes into bin 2
By this time the compost that goes into bin 3 should be ready to use.
I screen it to get all the big bits out, these go back into bin 1.

You do not need to use bins, a heap on the ground works just as well.
I use bins because it is neater and I have a dog that can't resist a heap of compost.
She thinks it is her job to help me spread it all around. :)

Final point.
Compost should never stink. If it does the main cause is that it's too wet.
This causes rotting rather than composting. Turn it to dry it.

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This Blog belongs to
Johan Campbell
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